Looking for professional tree services, on which you can rely? Well Estate Tree Service LLC is the ideal place for you. From tree removal, pruning and stump grinding to debris cleanup, we are always ready for you with our 24/7 emergency service. We are always committed to our professionalism and accept all major credit cards. Give us a call for free estimates.
Tree Trimming & Shaping
Tree Pruning & Shaping
Top Soil & Seeding
Dump, Bucket & Crane Truck Service
Annual Maintenance Plan
Tree trimming is important for aesthetic reasons and to encourage the growth of strong, healthy trees.
Flowering trees set their blossoms the year before they bloom. Therefore, they won't bloom if these flower buds are trimmed off the tree. The best rule is to always trim flowering trees within 3 weeks of when they finish blooming. That should prevent you from inadvertently removing buds containing next year's flower show. Along with proper planting, tree trimming is one of the most important tree care practices to maintain or enhance a tree's health. Proper, knowledgeable tree trimming is very beneficial. Improper trimming, however, can be detrimental to tree health and in some instances lead to declines or mortality. In an urban environment, trimming shade trees to maintain health, aesthetically shape the trees or minimize safety risks is a common practice.
The most influential time for trimming is when the tree is young. A young tree should be trimmed every one to three years for the first 10 to 15 years. During this time, a knowledgeable trimmer will make specific corrections to the branching habits in order to avoid future problems and achieve an intended form. Tree topping (removing the upper crown) is not an acceptable tree trimming method (unless the upper portion is deadwood or declining). It adversely affects the health and longevity of trees. It causes a profusion of weakly attached branches at the top. This does not make trees safer. It destroys the natural form. The objective of pruning is to produce strong, healthy, attractive plants. By understanding how, when and why to prune, and by following a few simple principles, this objective can be achieved.
The main reasons for pruning ornamental and shade trees include safety, health, and aesthetics. In addition, pruning can be used to stimulate fruit production and increase the value of timber. Pruning for safety involves removing branches that could fall and cause injury or property damage, trimming branches that interfere with lines of sight on streets or driveways, and removing branches that grow into utility lines. Safety pruning can be largely avoided by carefully choosing species that will not grow beyond the space available to them, and have strength and form characteristics that are suited to the site.
Pruning for health involves removing diseased or insect-infested wood, thinning the crown to increase airflow and reduce some pest problems, and removing crossing and rubbing branches. Pruning can best be used to encourage trees to develop a strong structure and reduce the likelihood of damage during severe weather. Removing broken or damaged limbs encourage wound closure.
Pruning for aesthetics involves enhancing the natural form and character of trees or stimulating flower production. Pruning for form can be especially important on open-grown trees that do very little self-pruning.
Tree cabling involves the installation of hardware that is intended to reduce the risk of catastrophic failure. Support cables are used to reduce tree damage by limiting the lateral movement of branches and increasing the weight that a supported branch joint can sustain. Cables are installed in trees to provide support to weak or potentially dangerous limbs by connecting two or more limbs together. Mechanical support may be needed due to split, decayed or poorly structured limb junctions or the inherent dangers of weak-wooded trees. Poorly structured, multi-stemmed trees are more susceptible to breaking under the stress of wind or the weight of accumulated ice or snow. It is important to keep in mind that support cables have limitations.
There are a lot of different reasons why tree removal may be a necessary option for your home. The tree could be blocking an important part of your home or it could be leaning dangerously towards the house that you are struggling to pay off. Maybe the roots of the tree have entered deep into the ground and disturbed the plumbing lines around your property. This last one can be especially dangerous because it can cause your pipes to back up and result in flooding. No matter what the reason, tree removal can be done safely and effectively so that you can live without the fear of a big branch smashing into your roof.
After a tree has been removed the unsightly stump is left to deal with. Our stump removal consists of grinding the stump 8 to 12 inches below grade and the area is then raked, covered with topsoil, and grass seed is planted. And the wood chips that result from the grinding make terrific mulch for other plantings!
Numerous fertilizer application methods are available. The best method for a given situation is based on the soil and foliar analysis. competing vegetation, soil type, desired effects and other considerations, such as the use of property and location of groundwater. No one method is best suited for all situations. The most frequently used, easiest and least expensive method is broadcasting a granular fertilizer on top of the soil. A spreader is calibrated to deliver the desired amount of fertilizer over the root zone. After the application, the area must be watered to dissolve the fertilizer and wash it off the grass and into the soil. This method has the advantage of being inexpensive, using simple nutrients taken up by grass and other plants and thus not available to the trees. Smaller and more frequent applications need to be applied when the grass is present. Another method of applying fertilizer is the spraying of a liquid, water-soluble fertilizer. This method requires a tank and spray mechanism, which can be as simple as a hand sprayer to as complicated as a large tank sprayer mounted on a trailer. It has the disadvantage of requiring more expensive equipment to apply. An advantage is being quick to apply after the desired formulation is mixed. In order to eliminate nutrients being taken up by grasses and other shallow-rooted plants, fertilizers may be applied directly into the root zone. One method of this type is soil injection. Fertilizers are mixed in a tank similar to the above method, then a soil probe is pushed into the soil to a depth of six to twelve inches. These application points are spaced on a grid pattern that is two to three feet apart. The advantages are that the fertilizer is injected directly into the root zone where it is needed, applying water at the same time and adding air spaces by breaking up compacted soils. This method has a disadvantage of requiring expensive equipment and the potential of rapid leaching. Another method of applying fertilizer directly into the root zone is the drill hole method. This method uses a portable drill with a bit two to five inches in diameter. Holes are drilled in a similar pattern and depth as the liquid injection method. Granular fertilizer and a soil amendment, such as peat moss, perlite gravel or sand are placed in the holes. A broadcast application of fertilizers helps to eliminate the patchy effect visible when the grass is present. This method also has the advantage of aerating the soil but requires the location of utility lines before starting. A third method of applying fertilizer directly into the root zone is through the use of fertilizer spikes. These spikes are two to three inches long and made of a compacted fiber impregnated with fertilizer. The fertilizer is released slowly as the spike disintegrates in the soil. This method requires very few tools, but is expensive when treating large areas and slightly compacts the soil where the spike is inserted.
Generally speaking, a good time for pruning shrubs is when they start to look untidy.
Thinning Shrubs In this shrub trimming technique, branches are selectively removed at the base to open up the crown, maximize light penetration and prevent the shrub from growing too large for its surroundings.
This type of shrub pruning is also performed to emphasize the larger stems and trunks if you are training your shrub to look like a small tree.
Shaping Shrubs We cut back or “head” branches to a point where they meet another branch or bud, keeping the cut at a 45-degree angle.
If you desire a formal look, we trim back the new shoots by half in early summer to stimulate branching at the base. Then, in the fall, we trim all new growth back by half again and begin shaping the shrubbery by tapering the sides and making the top flat or rounded.
It can be tempting to try to DIY your punning, but it’s very easy to overdo it, resulting in a loss of flowers and fruit formation. Experts prune only when there is a definite reason. By thinning out the oldest branches, heading back tall, leggy stems and cleaning up unproductive or dead wood, most shrubs can be maintained at the proper height and spread for many years.
Lot clearing is a common solution for properties undergoing a transformation. The process consists of clearing trees and shrubs from a plot of land to make way for new construction, renovations, or a lawn expansion.
After a tree removal and the stump has been ground out the site is not conducive for growing grass so you will need to have some fresh rich topsoil applied to the site in order for grass seed to germinate. We deliver and spread the topsoil, apply top quality grass seed and cover the site with a biodegradable germination blanket.
If you need dirt or gravel hauled and delivered, have a light bulb in a parking lot that needs to be changed or need a sign hung or large heavy object relocated we have the truck that will do the job.
If you find that you just don’t have the time or energy to properly maintain your trees and shrubs give us a call and we will come out and customize a maintenance plan to suit your needs and budget.
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